Montale's Black Aoud is a really simple and linear fragrance. Upon initial spray, you get Montale's and Mancera's signature oud note. It doesn't smell like the Western oud notes which you'd smell in offerings from Tom Ford, Dior, Versace, and so on. Rather, it's a bitter, musky, and petrol tinged note which is dark and pungent. It's paired with a dark, opulent, and almost boozy rose note, which is what actually dominates the fragrance. As it dries down, patchouli gives it some earthiness. I feel like I get incense out of it, though that could be because it reminds me of bakhoor.
Performance is insane. The fragrance projects for 8 or 9 hours. I can't even clock the longevity since I've never waited for it to just disappear before taking a shower. If you get this on your clothes, it will last for months, and persist over a few laundry cycles. In one instance, one of my shirts actually made all my other laundry in the same machine faintly smell of Black Aoud. None of this is an exaggeration either.
Black Aoud is not necessarily unique; although it was somewhat forward for a Western marketed fragrance. It was released a few years after M7, but a few years before the oud craze really hit the Western luxury markets. It's very synthetic, and some might find it obnoxious (I think that's one of its charms). It also doesn't smell like it's better composed, more natural, or made of better materials, than cheaper fragrances from houses like Nabeel, Al Rehab, Swiss Arabian, Rasasi, Lattafa, and the like.
Yet despite its simplicity and fairly generic scent profile, Black Aoud still stands out from all the others, and it has an addictive quality to it. This is one of my all time favorite fragrances, and about as close as I get to having a signature scent.
Thursday, September 2, 2021
Montale Black Aoud Review
Sunday, April 18, 2021
Montale Cuir d'Arabie Review
Well, I finally found a fragrance which even I don't think I'd wear in public... at least for the first half hour after application anyway. "Fecal" is a common adjective for fragrances which contain notes like oud, jasmine, or some animalic and musky notes (and yes, I know using a word like "fecal" at the start of the second sentence is alarming). I generally take those descriptions with a grain of salt. While I do pick up on what people mean, I won't mistake those notes for actual feces. This is not the case with Montale's Aoud Cuir d'Arabie. When I first sprayed it on, I immediately said "what the fuck, are you shitting me?" It smells like shit... literally. It's like you accidentally stepped in something outside, and decided to throw out those shoes because there's no fucking way you're going to be able to clean off the substance which could have only been shat out by Cerberus after he escaped from the Underworld because Hades didn't close the door while taking out the garbage in the evening. It's putrid enough to have made me feel like running to the sink to scrub this shit off.
But I decided to wait. I wasn't going outside, so it's not like anyone will be smelling it anyway. Plus, fuck me if I'm not getting at least one full wearing out of something I bought. Anyway, I just needed to keep my wrist as far away from my nose as possible so I wouldn't be getting wafts of manure until I decided to see if it develops after a while. At least until my mind would say to myself "you're exaggerating, it doesn't really smell like shit. Don't wait, smell your arm again, it's ok." At which point I would sniff it again and be reminded that, yes, it does indeed smell like shit; and then I'm back to keeping my arm at, uh, arm distance. And my brain would start laughing. I could ask if my senses inform my cognition, or if my cognition informs my senses, but I'm not getting into that empiricism vs rationalism shit (no pun intended). Decartes and Locke would be very disappointed in me (I think Locke and Hume would actually chuckle shamefully, they seem like they were fun guys).
Anyhoo, after about 15 or 20 minutes from application, that shitty smell thankfully started to subside. The fragrance began turning into something much more wearable. Consequently, this review will henceforth be far less vulgar - probably still vulgar as shit, because that's just how I roll, but less so. Take the signature Montale oud note - a petrol and leather tinged woody note which dominates half of their fragrances (and Mancera's fragrances too... I guess they must have vats full of this stuff and are constantly churning out new fragrances every other day in order to figure out what to do with all those buckets of oud). Add more animalic leather and a bit of birch-like smokiness. Within about half an hour after application, you're just left with those notes, and the shit is totally gone. The fragrance doesn't change at all after that and remains mostly linear. In the far drydown, there's maybe a hint of soapiness you'd get in some old-school leather fragrances like Kouros, Bogart, Paco Rabanne, Quorum, and the like.
Performance is actually tame for a Montale fragrance. Yes, it's strong, but it's not as brash or obscene as I was expecting. It does project obnoxiously for an hour or so. It wouldn't deserve the "Montale Aoud ____" name if it started off with class rather than ass. This isn't Hermès (though they are kind of trashy nowadays). It also would have been absurd for me to wax poetic about how it smelled like the neighborhood after Fluffums had eaten a bad can of Puppy Chow and unleashed his fury. But it does start to sit close to the skin after the first hour. The longevity, however, is 10+ hours.
Overall, it is an interesting scent precisely because it is closer to an old world tannery, or the smell of goat skin on a darbouka (don't sniff it... trust me), than the traditional leather notes. That's admittedly ballsy of Montale (or shitty). Regardless, it takes a lot for me to think something is unwearable. I may hate some fragrances because they are too harsh, generic, juvenile, or sickeningly sweet, but I won't necessarily think they cannot be worn in public. I mean, I'll call One Million shit (not literally...), but if you wear it? Not much of a problem with me... depending on my mood. Likewise with musky, animalic, and sweaty fragrances which smell like you're about to collapse because you're dehydrated and worn out from fucking someone for 10 hours straight (if it was just by yourself, kudos... and good luck with the pain). Vintage Kouros? I had no problem killing off a decant of it, even though it's definitely more animalic than the current version. Even something like Neandertal Dark, a somewhat avant-garde scent which sort of smells like a cross between an urban fire, burning rocks, and dust clouds at a construction site, is perfectly wearable for me. I'm even still curious to try Secretions Magnifiques, since it doesn't really sound that bad.
But the opening of Aoud Cuir d'Arabie made me throw my hands up and just shout out "nope" (as in the slang verb, not what you'd find in the Oxford Dictionary... I don't think?). It was finally something that even I wouldn't wear in public and wouldn't want to smell on myself. I wonder how many other people would too? Otherwise, why would the COVID toilet paper shortage have been such a big deal?
But the rest of the fragrance is actually good. It's not amazing. Aside from the topnotes, it's not a creative or unique fragrance either. It's like an afterthought from the house done by taking a few basenotes common in their other fragrances, and it seems pointless. There are much better leather fragrances out there. For the Montale oud note, I'll always prefer to reach for Black Aoud over this one; although I guess that's not fair since Black Aoud is one of my all time favorite fragrances, and probably as close to a signature scent as I'll get. But if you're looking for a leather and oud fragrance with an animalic edge, and you can tolerate 20 or 30 minutes of smelling like the noxious fumes emanating from a gas station shitter which had been condemned by NATO, this could be a good choice.
.... shit.
Tuesday, January 19, 2021
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Intensa review
The name of the fragrance, and many reviewers treating it as another neroli-based cologne, are misleading. When I first tried this, I remember being really taken aback at how different it was from other fragrances to which it is compared. This is more of a fresh, spicy, leather fragrance than a citrus and neroli centered cologne.
Like other fragrances in Acqua di Parma’s Colonia line, Colonia Intensa does indeed feature beautiful citrus notes and neroli. Where this one differs, however, is that it’s more aromatic. Right from the very opening of the fragrance, I immediately get cardamom and ginger – both of which are spicy, warm, yet bracing and fresh. The latter aspects stand out more due to being buttressed by citrus and neroli which serve more so as background players. As the fragrance dries down, the soapy, eau de cologne style really dissipates. It becomes a light and gentle leather fragrance. It is also resinous, and the myrrh note is photorealistic. It smells like a cross between the myrrh plant and the raw resins. The leather is buttery, opulent, and clean. Surprisingly, it actually feels more closely related to Bel Ami than to the other fragrances in the Colonia line.
Despite the name Intensa, this isn’t a particularly intense fragrance. Longevity averages around 6ish hours. It does project well for a couple of hours before becoming a warm skin scent.
Like other fragrances in Acqua di Parma’s Colonia line, Colonia Intensa does indeed feature beautiful citrus notes and neroli. Where this one differs, however, is that it’s more aromatic. Right from the very opening of the fragrance, I immediately get cardamom and ginger – both of which are spicy, warm, yet bracing and fresh. The latter aspects stand out more due to being buttressed by citrus and neroli which serve more so as background players. As the fragrance dries down, the soapy, eau de cologne style really dissipates. It becomes a light and gentle leather fragrance. It is also resinous, and the myrrh note is photorealistic. It smells like a cross between the myrrh plant and the raw resins. The leather is buttery, opulent, and clean. Surprisingly, it actually feels more closely related to Bel Ami than to the other fragrances in the Colonia line.
Despite the name Intensa, this isn’t a particularly intense fragrance. Longevity averages around 6ish hours. It does project well for a couple of hours before becoming a warm skin scent.
Acqua di Parma - Mirto di Panarea review
Following the thematic scheme of Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo line, Mirto di Panarea focuses on the myrtle note. If you’ve never smelled myrtle before, it’s a green, fresh, slightly sweet plant which is esteemed for its beautiful aroma throughout the Mediterranean.
Of the different fragrances in the Blu Meditteraneo line, Mirto di Panarea probably fits in best with the neroli theme in the Colonia line. The myrtle note is dry, bitter, and soapy – not unlike some renditions of neroli or petitgrain, albeit without the orange undertones. Lemon is paired with the myrtle at the start of the fragrance, though it dissipates after 20 minutes or so.
Fragrantica lists a few notes for Mirto di Panarea, but I don’t really get most of them, except for jasmine being the clearest to my nose. This is mostly myrtle throughout the entire duration of the scent, with some slight nondescript floral and woody notes buttressing the myrtle. It smells like an artisanal bar of soap – clean, sophisticated, yet casual and relaxed.
Longevity is surprisingly decent. I can get wafts of this for around 7 hours. It does project well for a couple of hours before sitting close to the skin.
Of the different fragrances in the Blu Meditteraneo line, Mirto di Panarea probably fits in best with the neroli theme in the Colonia line. The myrtle note is dry, bitter, and soapy – not unlike some renditions of neroli or petitgrain, albeit without the orange undertones. Lemon is paired with the myrtle at the start of the fragrance, though it dissipates after 20 minutes or so.
Fragrantica lists a few notes for Mirto di Panarea, but I don’t really get most of them, except for jasmine being the clearest to my nose. This is mostly myrtle throughout the entire duration of the scent, with some slight nondescript floral and woody notes buttressing the myrtle. It smells like an artisanal bar of soap – clean, sophisticated, yet casual and relaxed.
Longevity is surprisingly decent. I can get wafts of this for around 7 hours. It does project well for a couple of hours before sitting close to the skin.
Acqua di Parma - Arancia di Capri review
This is part of Acqua di Parma’s Blu Mediterraneo line. The line is thematically evocative of the Mediterranean, focusing on notes common in the region. They’re usually simple and minimalistic fragrances which emphasize the note in the title. As such, Arancia di Capri is focused on arancia, or oranges.
When you first spray it on, you get a dry mandarin note, kind of similar to Mandarino di Amalfi. It sweetens a little as it begins to dry down, but it still stays predominantly orange based. Some white musk amplifies the scent, though it isn’t a very dominant note. A bit of orange blossom adds some dry soapiness in the drydown as well. That’s basically the whole fragrance.
The fragrance makes me picture the sun beating down from the clear sky on a hot summer day. The way the smell of sweaty skin would amplify the orange and the musk, while mixing with the salty air of the sea or ocean, might not sound appealing to some. However, it sounds magical to me, and makes me eagerly await the summer.
Longevity is 4 or 5 hours, which is surprisingly good. It projects well for maybe half an hour, but it sits closer to the skin for the rest of its duration. It’s a gentle, refreshing, casual fragrance.
When you first spray it on, you get a dry mandarin note, kind of similar to Mandarino di Amalfi. It sweetens a little as it begins to dry down, but it still stays predominantly orange based. Some white musk amplifies the scent, though it isn’t a very dominant note. A bit of orange blossom adds some dry soapiness in the drydown as well. That’s basically the whole fragrance.
The fragrance makes me picture the sun beating down from the clear sky on a hot summer day. The way the smell of sweaty skin would amplify the orange and the musk, while mixing with the salty air of the sea or ocean, might not sound appealing to some. However, it sounds magical to me, and makes me eagerly await the summer.
Longevity is 4 or 5 hours, which is surprisingly good. It projects well for maybe half an hour, but it sits closer to the skin for the rest of its duration. It’s a gentle, refreshing, casual fragrance.
Monday, April 20, 2020
Dawn Spencer Hurwitz - Rocky Mountain High review
Rocky Mountain High is a green, dry, pungent, vegetal, and bitter fragrance. It's certainly interesting, and something which would be appreciated by fans of green fragrances. True to the name, it definitely smells like flower (not smoked cannabis) - very much so - but it's tempered by clary sage, pine, and fir. It's fairly linear, and I mostly get these basenotes throughout a wearing, so there isn't much to say about it. Though the cannabis note does become gentler as the fragrance dries down, and the green, woodier notes become more dominant. Nevertheless, it still doesn't change much from when it's first sprayed.
This might be appealing to fans of green chypres from the 70's or 80's.
The cannabis note is quite daring, however, so I'd imagine this is not a safe office scent. Smelling like booze isn't particularly daring, especially since it smells entirely different in a bottle than it does as your body metabolizes it. Smelling like pot, on the other hand, might turn a few heads, even though it's pretty much legal in a lot of place.
Performance isn't bad. I get maybe 7 or 8 hours from it. It seems like it sits close to the skin after an hour, though I've gotten a few comments about how I smelled after a few hours.
This might be appealing to fans of green chypres from the 70's or 80's.
The cannabis note is quite daring, however, so I'd imagine this is not a safe office scent. Smelling like booze isn't particularly daring, especially since it smells entirely different in a bottle than it does as your body metabolizes it. Smelling like pot, on the other hand, might turn a few heads, even though it's pretty much legal in a lot of place.
Performance isn't bad. I get maybe 7 or 8 hours from it. It seems like it sits close to the skin after an hour, though I've gotten a few comments about how I smelled after a few hours.
Sunday, January 19, 2020
Lalique - Pour Homme EDP and EDT
I have the EDT and the EDP. They both smell really similar and it would be redundant to have both. However, they're different enough to make it worth considering which one you'd prefer picking up.
The EDT starts off with a really strong blast of citrus. It's like a cross between bergamot and a bitter citrus note (I guess it's the grapefruit). Which gives the scent an even more classic 1950's or 60's chypre or fougere feel.
The way the EDT smells after it has been on your skin for 10-15 minutes is how the EDP starts off. It does have citrus in its opening, but that accord is very fleeting and light. It's almost entirely concealed by the powdery and woody notes.
They're both primarily floral, woody, and powdery scents, with a bit of sweetness from vanilla. The sandalwood is spicy, and comes across stronger in the EDP than EDT.
As an aside, although iris is voted as the second most prominent note, don't expect the kind of iris note from the Dior Homme, Valentino Uomo, Prada L'homme etc lines. This isn't lipsticky at all, which may be a pro or a con, depending on your tastes.
Longevity is 6ish hours for the EDT, and 10 for the EDP.
The EDT projects for around an hour before it starts to sit closer to the skin. It's a skin scent by the 4th hour, and barely noticeable by the 6th.
The EDP projects for 2-3 hours, and doesn't really become a skin scent until it's been on for 7 hours or so. It has legs, but don't get this with the hopes of a beast mode fragrance.
If you want something lighter, more conservative, and more citrus oriented, then go with the EDT. For something a bit bolder, go with the EDP. I think both smell fantastic. I far prefer the opening of the EDT, but overall prefer the EDP.
Either one should satisfy your craving for Bois du Portugal without wanting to pay Creed's price tag.
The EDT starts off with a really strong blast of citrus. It's like a cross between bergamot and a bitter citrus note (I guess it's the grapefruit). Which gives the scent an even more classic 1950's or 60's chypre or fougere feel.
The way the EDT smells after it has been on your skin for 10-15 minutes is how the EDP starts off. It does have citrus in its opening, but that accord is very fleeting and light. It's almost entirely concealed by the powdery and woody notes.
They're both primarily floral, woody, and powdery scents, with a bit of sweetness from vanilla. The sandalwood is spicy, and comes across stronger in the EDP than EDT.
As an aside, although iris is voted as the second most prominent note, don't expect the kind of iris note from the Dior Homme, Valentino Uomo, Prada L'homme etc lines. This isn't lipsticky at all, which may be a pro or a con, depending on your tastes.
Longevity is 6ish hours for the EDT, and 10 for the EDP.
The EDT projects for around an hour before it starts to sit closer to the skin. It's a skin scent by the 4th hour, and barely noticeable by the 6th.
The EDP projects for 2-3 hours, and doesn't really become a skin scent until it's been on for 7 hours or so. It has legs, but don't get this with the hopes of a beast mode fragrance.
If you want something lighter, more conservative, and more citrus oriented, then go with the EDT. For something a bit bolder, go with the EDP. I think both smell fantastic. I far prefer the opening of the EDT, but overall prefer the EDP.
Either one should satisfy your craving for Bois du Portugal without wanting to pay Creed's price tag.
Friday, January 17, 2020
Swiss Arabian - Shaghaf Oud Review
This is a pretty straightforward scent. It doesn't evolve at all throughout a wearing.
It has the petrol oud and saffron combo paired with rose, which is where it's rooted in lots of other Arabian scents. Think more in line with Montale's Black Aoud than the more Western takes on oud, like Oud Wood. That aspect of the fragrance gives it a daring character in Western contexts.
The caramel, vanilla, and slightly nutty notes lean westward and make it more accessible for those who don't like oud. Albeit it's still more daring than something like Noir de Noir. The scent is sweet, but it's not as much as as One Million. The pungent notes temper the sweeter notes, and vice versa. I can't say I'm a huge fan of it. I think Shaghaf Oud Aswad is far more interesting.
It has excellent performance. 12ish hours of longevity. It doesn't seem to project if I smell my arm up close. But don't be deceived. Even after 6 hours, I can smell it from like 3 feet away when my wrists are at my sides.
It has the petrol oud and saffron combo paired with rose, which is where it's rooted in lots of other Arabian scents. Think more in line with Montale's Black Aoud than the more Western takes on oud, like Oud Wood. That aspect of the fragrance gives it a daring character in Western contexts.
The caramel, vanilla, and slightly nutty notes lean westward and make it more accessible for those who don't like oud. Albeit it's still more daring than something like Noir de Noir. The scent is sweet, but it's not as much as as One Million. The pungent notes temper the sweeter notes, and vice versa. I can't say I'm a huge fan of it. I think Shaghaf Oud Aswad is far more interesting.
It has excellent performance. 12ish hours of longevity. It doesn't seem to project if I smell my arm up close. But don't be deceived. Even after 6 hours, I can smell it from like 3 feet away when my wrists are at my sides.
Monday, December 9, 2019
Bvlgari - Aqva Amara review
This is my favorite in the Aqva line - a line which I really enjoy - but I can see why it's so polarizing. You can't approach this scent with the expectation that it will be an aquatic. That's not quite what it is. This is more like an eau de cologne meets an aquatic, but on Tren.
It starts off with orange and a proper neroli note (i.e. it smells like actual orange blossom water or neroli oil, not like whatever those cheaper "neroli" notes are supposed to smell like). My face is awash with the air of the Mediterranean when I smell this pairing. Although I can see how the white floral character of the neroli is polarizing to some. I feel like I get a hint of some dry, bitter jasmine as well (like jasmine tea), although it's not listed.
The opening accord lasts for quite a while, although it gradually darkens. The Aqva DNA becomes more noticeable at this point as the fragrance gradually gets saltier and aqueous. There's a bit of a dirty character, which pops up, and I'm guessing that comes from the patchouli. The far drydown smells more typical of an aquatic fragrance, and the earlier colonia notes are mostly gone. It reminds me of some other aquatic scent, but I can't recall which one (I want to say the drydown of AdG Essenza, but I'm not sure that's it).
Longevity is splendid. 12 hours easy. It projects like a beast for the first couple of hours, but it gradually becomes more of a skin scent. It persists after a shower, and I can smell hints of it after going out at night. It's a shame it's discontinued.
It starts off with orange and a proper neroli note (i.e. it smells like actual orange blossom water or neroli oil, not like whatever those cheaper "neroli" notes are supposed to smell like). My face is awash with the air of the Mediterranean when I smell this pairing. Although I can see how the white floral character of the neroli is polarizing to some. I feel like I get a hint of some dry, bitter jasmine as well (like jasmine tea), although it's not listed.
The opening accord lasts for quite a while, although it gradually darkens. The Aqva DNA becomes more noticeable at this point as the fragrance gradually gets saltier and aqueous. There's a bit of a dirty character, which pops up, and I'm guessing that comes from the patchouli. The far drydown smells more typical of an aquatic fragrance, and the earlier colonia notes are mostly gone. It reminds me of some other aquatic scent, but I can't recall which one (I want to say the drydown of AdG Essenza, but I'm not sure that's it).
Longevity is splendid. 12 hours easy. It projects like a beast for the first couple of hours, but it gradually becomes more of a skin scent. It persists after a shower, and I can smell hints of it after going out at night. It's a shame it's discontinued.
Monday, November 18, 2019
Azzaro - Acteur review
It's always a pleasure when I come across a fragrance which, from my first sniff, leaves me absolutely speechless. Acteur is one which caused that sort of effect on me. I kept sleeping on this scent, and I regret missing all the years during which I could have enjoyed this. Among Azzaro's popular Wanted line, all the endless Chrome flankers, and random and ignored scents of varying quality, this falls by the wayside (not sure if that's the cause of, or due to, being discontinued [or both]). That's criminal, however, as this easily stands on par with Azzaro's acclaimed mainstay Azzaro PH.
Although released in the 80's, this does not have much in common with the powerhouses of the decade; but some notes do overlap. It starts off with a dark, sweet, slightly pungent fruity accord. It is more like a melange of dense, syrupy, and sticky dried fruit simmered with some warm spices. It almost smells boozy; possibly since it reminds me of spicy drinks and pastries during the holiday seasons; albeit this accord is not at all sweet.
As the fragrance dries down, its rose, leather, and moss notes dominate the scent. The leather is supple and refined, but powerful. The raw patchouli note gives the scent an earthy and green character. Its cedar note also smells quite earthy; more like cedarwood oil than pencil shavings.
I get pretty good performance out of it. I get around 10ish hours of longevity, and maybe 2-3 hours of projection. It's tame, but you won't forget it's there.
The splash bottles are a bit annoying to apply. I'd suggest ordering a glass spray bottle in which you can just pour this. Current prices for the 50ml size can be had for a steal (around 20ish), and surprisingly less than half the cost of the 100ml bottle. Or just pay extra, get the 100ml spray bottle, and don't bother decanting it.
Although released in the 80's, this does not have much in common with the powerhouses of the decade; but some notes do overlap. It starts off with a dark, sweet, slightly pungent fruity accord. It is more like a melange of dense, syrupy, and sticky dried fruit simmered with some warm spices. It almost smells boozy; possibly since it reminds me of spicy drinks and pastries during the holiday seasons; albeit this accord is not at all sweet.
As the fragrance dries down, its rose, leather, and moss notes dominate the scent. The leather is supple and refined, but powerful. The raw patchouli note gives the scent an earthy and green character. Its cedar note also smells quite earthy; more like cedarwood oil than pencil shavings.
I get pretty good performance out of it. I get around 10ish hours of longevity, and maybe 2-3 hours of projection. It's tame, but you won't forget it's there.
The splash bottles are a bit annoying to apply. I'd suggest ordering a glass spray bottle in which you can just pour this. Current prices for the 50ml size can be had for a steal (around 20ish), and surprisingly less than half the cost of the 100ml bottle. Or just pay extra, get the 100ml spray bottle, and don't bother decanting it.
Monday, September 30, 2019
Aramis - New West
Although this is often called an aquatic or proto-aquatic, don't go into this expecting a fresh fougere like Cool Water, Eternity, Escape, Polo Sport, and the like. This is a dense, dark, complex, aromatic, green fragrance through and through, albeit with some touches which anticipate the 90's. This is more of a close friend of Guy Laroche's Horizon, even if it's not a close relative.
It starts off with a distinct watermelon note. I don't mean a typically aquatic melon nuance, but rather an obvious and forward melon note. It's paired with a salty aquatic note, smelling quite oceanic, but not fresh. This fruity aquatic pairing lasts for a couple of hours, and is the extent of the 90's touches. As it dries down, it becomes undoubtedly clear that this is a child of the 80's. The herbaceous and woody notes start dominating the composition. Although some mint gives it a fresh touch, the fragrance is marked by its primarily dark, pungent, bitter, and green direction. Juniper, pine, artemisia (probably what's giving the fragrance so much pungency to my nose), and leather jump at me, along with a cedar note which is more akin to cedarwood oil than to the pencil shavings note. I don't really get moss out of it, unfortunately. This is an 80's powerhouse through and through, but a very unique one.
I haven't tried the blue bottle version. The one I have is from 2014. Compares to other reformulations from Aramis, this actually has decent performance. I get maybe 8 hours from it. It projects strongly for a couple of hours before it turns into a skin scent.
It starts off with a distinct watermelon note. I don't mean a typically aquatic melon nuance, but rather an obvious and forward melon note. It's paired with a salty aquatic note, smelling quite oceanic, but not fresh. This fruity aquatic pairing lasts for a couple of hours, and is the extent of the 90's touches. As it dries down, it becomes undoubtedly clear that this is a child of the 80's. The herbaceous and woody notes start dominating the composition. Although some mint gives it a fresh touch, the fragrance is marked by its primarily dark, pungent, bitter, and green direction. Juniper, pine, artemisia (probably what's giving the fragrance so much pungency to my nose), and leather jump at me, along with a cedar note which is more akin to cedarwood oil than to the pencil shavings note. I don't really get moss out of it, unfortunately. This is an 80's powerhouse through and through, but a very unique one.
I haven't tried the blue bottle version. The one I have is from 2014. Compares to other reformulations from Aramis, this actually has decent performance. I get maybe 8 hours from it. It projects strongly for a couple of hours before it turns into a skin scent.
Saturday, September 21, 2019
Lalique - Encre Noire, 78% vs 79%
I have a bottle of the 78% version from 2012, and one of the 79% version from 2018. Doing a side-by-side comparison, both versions do smell mostly similar, but there are some differences.
The vintage is more daring. It smells dirty - like holding a fistful of grass and dirt - and is a tad smoky. It's paired with a nutty vetiver opening, which becomes fresher as the scent dries down.
The current version smells mostly similar in the drydown, and has the nutty vetiver in the opening. Where it differs is that I don't get the dirty, inky, or smoky notes from it.
Performance also differs. The vintage isn't a beast mode scent, but it's strong and tenacious. I get 12 hours and good projection. The current version lasts for 8-10 hours. It projects well for the first hour, then seems to sit closer to the skin, though people have made comments about it to me.
The current version isn't necessarily a bad reformulation. Whether it's worse or better than the vintage will probably depend on your own tastes. If you want something strong, a bit daring, and more vetiver dominant than EN L'Extreme, then you'll probably prefer the vintage. If you want something restrained, gentle, or office appropriate, safer, cleaner, fresher, and more vetiver dominant than EN Sport, you'll probably prefer the current version
The vintage is more daring. It smells dirty - like holding a fistful of grass and dirt - and is a tad smoky. It's paired with a nutty vetiver opening, which becomes fresher as the scent dries down.
The current version smells mostly similar in the drydown, and has the nutty vetiver in the opening. Where it differs is that I don't get the dirty, inky, or smoky notes from it.
Performance also differs. The vintage isn't a beast mode scent, but it's strong and tenacious. I get 12 hours and good projection. The current version lasts for 8-10 hours. It projects well for the first hour, then seems to sit closer to the skin, though people have made comments about it to me.
The current version isn't necessarily a bad reformulation. Whether it's worse or better than the vintage will probably depend on your own tastes. If you want something strong, a bit daring, and more vetiver dominant than EN L'Extreme, then you'll probably prefer the vintage. If you want something restrained, gentle, or office appropriate, safer, cleaner, fresher, and more vetiver dominant than EN Sport, you'll probably prefer the current version
Saturday, August 3, 2019
Issey Miyake - L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme Fraiche Review
After being really disappointed in the performance of the current L'eau d'Issey, I decided to give this one a try. While I cannot say that it's a replacement for the vintage version, Fraiche does fill the gap.
It does smell pretty similar; not the same, but similar. It's more sour and pungent upon initial spray, as the citrus is like a grapefruit rind, and it doesn't have that distinctive yuzu note. Nonetheless, if you're captivated by the original's opening, this is oh so very satisfying.
As it dries down, the citrus note does linger a lot longer than I'd have expected. It becomes slightly herbaceous, there's a bit of vetiver, and some musk. It mostly continues in that direction through the duration of the scent. It's not floral like the original, though I do get a slight hint of rose in the drydown which caught me off guard (in a good way).
I happen to love the original's floral character, but others may prefer this direction.
I got this during a heat wave, so I wore it while being somewhat sweaty. I can't comment on how this will perform in the winter, but this is magical in the high heat. It really shimmers beautifully, and you get these gentle wafts from the scent.
Longevity is around 8-10 hours.
Good projection for around an hour. Sits closer to the skin after that, but it lingers. Spray it on clothes and you'll get even more mileage.
It does smell pretty similar; not the same, but similar. It's more sour and pungent upon initial spray, as the citrus is like a grapefruit rind, and it doesn't have that distinctive yuzu note. Nonetheless, if you're captivated by the original's opening, this is oh so very satisfying.
As it dries down, the citrus note does linger a lot longer than I'd have expected. It becomes slightly herbaceous, there's a bit of vetiver, and some musk. It mostly continues in that direction through the duration of the scent. It's not floral like the original, though I do get a slight hint of rose in the drydown which caught me off guard (in a good way).
I happen to love the original's floral character, but others may prefer this direction.
I got this during a heat wave, so I wore it while being somewhat sweaty. I can't comment on how this will perform in the winter, but this is magical in the high heat. It really shimmers beautifully, and you get these gentle wafts from the scent.
Longevity is around 8-10 hours.
Good projection for around an hour. Sits closer to the skin after that, but it lingers. Spray it on clothes and you'll get even more mileage.
Sunday, June 23, 2019
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Club Review
One look at the bottle will basically tell you what this fragrance smells like. Colonia Club has the basic AdP Colonia line DNA, but it goes in a greener direction.
The primary note is a multifaceted take on mint. It's earthy, as though it is still in the ground, and is slightly pungent. It lacks the coldness of peppermint or spearmint oil, and smells more like you just crushed some fresh mint in your hand. Lavender begins to rear its head as the scent dries down, and rings true to the smell of pure lavender oil. The neroli is not as prominent as I was expecting, but it's still there, and the lemon is more forward than the voted main notes would indicate.
Performance is moderate, but that's to be expected. I get maybe 6 hours from it, and it's a skin scent by the end of the first hour.
The primary note is a multifaceted take on mint. It's earthy, as though it is still in the ground, and is slightly pungent. It lacks the coldness of peppermint or spearmint oil, and smells more like you just crushed some fresh mint in your hand. Lavender begins to rear its head as the scent dries down, and rings true to the smell of pure lavender oil. The neroli is not as prominent as I was expecting, but it's still there, and the lemon is more forward than the voted main notes would indicate.
Performance is moderate, but that's to be expected. I get maybe 6 hours from it, and it's a skin scent by the end of the first hour.
Tuesday, December 18, 2018
Gucci - Guilty Absolute Review
I love Gucci's clothing and leather goods. Their products are typically distinctive, innovative, tastefully audacious at times, and although quite expensive, you do get the quality to match. I'd even go as far as saying that their horsebit loafer, although copied by numerous shoe makers, is my favorite shoe design of all time. When it comes to the fragrances which are most readily available, however, my feelings are quite different. I can't say I've disliked the Gucci fragrances which I've tried at Sephora over the past few years, but I also can't say I felt the need to have anything more than a sample. Even then, I would only finish the sample in order to get a good feel for the fragrance before writing it off. Their more enjoyable scents are, unfortunately, often discontinued or unavailable at brick and mortars.
During a routine visit last year in which I perused the offerings at some local fragrance/cosmetic chains, I saw Guilty Absolute sitting on the shelf. It is an ambery liquid in a bottle which looks sort of like Bulleit, or some kind of nineteenth century medicine. Quite intriguing. So I had to try it out, even if only to see what approach they would take with that sort of presentation. After one spray on my arm, I was left completely speechless and awestruck, which rarely happens at first sniff. "Is this really Gucci?" I wondered. That feeling stayed throughout the duration of the scent, which is even rarer. I spent hours just sniffing my arm and feeling like I was in a state of bliss.
Guilty Absolute is the fragrance for which I've been searching for years. I've always wanted a fragrance which is similar to Islay whiskies. If I was being more specific, I'd say Caol Ila 12, which is my probably favorite whisky. This is about as close to capturing the smell I get when I pour myself a dram. Unlike Laphroaig or Ardbeg, it's not a peat or smoke bomb. It's balanced with more prominent salty and iodine notes, which gives it a buttery, leathery aroma. Guilty Absolute is much like that.
Upon first spray, you get a balanced mix of medicinal iodine and smoke, which overpowers any other notes. Within about a minute, that initial accord becomes more distinctly leathery. The "woody notes" remind me of the smell of a charred oak barrel. Shortly after, some fresher nuances start to appear, courtesy of vetiver and cypress. In that regard, it should appeal to fans of Encre Noire L'Extreme, although it also has that somewhat grapefruity tone from the vetiver of the current formulation of the original Encre Noire. Guilty Absolute basically smells the same way throughout its duration. I do get some patchouli further in the drydown, but it's not really as prominent as "three forms of patchouli oils" would have had me expect. It lends a bit of earthiness, but it's not spicy, chocolaty, or minty, just a bit dirty.
Performance is really good. It projects strongly for an hour, but sits closer to the skin soon after. Then it lasts as a skin scent for 8-10 hours, perhaps somewhat longer. I would have preferred something stronger, but given how much I love this, I can't complain.
I sincerely hope Gucci doesn't discontinue this fragrance. At times, I feel like they are dedicated to mediocrity, but if they keep releasing fragrances as good as Guilty Absolute, I would be proven completely wrong. This is one of the best designer releases I've tried in a long time. It's nothing short of a masterpiece. Great job guys.
During a routine visit last year in which I perused the offerings at some local fragrance/cosmetic chains, I saw Guilty Absolute sitting on the shelf. It is an ambery liquid in a bottle which looks sort of like Bulleit, or some kind of nineteenth century medicine. Quite intriguing. So I had to try it out, even if only to see what approach they would take with that sort of presentation. After one spray on my arm, I was left completely speechless and awestruck, which rarely happens at first sniff. "Is this really Gucci?" I wondered. That feeling stayed throughout the duration of the scent, which is even rarer. I spent hours just sniffing my arm and feeling like I was in a state of bliss.
Guilty Absolute is the fragrance for which I've been searching for years. I've always wanted a fragrance which is similar to Islay whiskies. If I was being more specific, I'd say Caol Ila 12, which is my probably favorite whisky. This is about as close to capturing the smell I get when I pour myself a dram. Unlike Laphroaig or Ardbeg, it's not a peat or smoke bomb. It's balanced with more prominent salty and iodine notes, which gives it a buttery, leathery aroma. Guilty Absolute is much like that.
Upon first spray, you get a balanced mix of medicinal iodine and smoke, which overpowers any other notes. Within about a minute, that initial accord becomes more distinctly leathery. The "woody notes" remind me of the smell of a charred oak barrel. Shortly after, some fresher nuances start to appear, courtesy of vetiver and cypress. In that regard, it should appeal to fans of Encre Noire L'Extreme, although it also has that somewhat grapefruity tone from the vetiver of the current formulation of the original Encre Noire. Guilty Absolute basically smells the same way throughout its duration. I do get some patchouli further in the drydown, but it's not really as prominent as "three forms of patchouli oils" would have had me expect. It lends a bit of earthiness, but it's not spicy, chocolaty, or minty, just a bit dirty.
Performance is really good. It projects strongly for an hour, but sits closer to the skin soon after. Then it lasts as a skin scent for 8-10 hours, perhaps somewhat longer. I would have preferred something stronger, but given how much I love this, I can't complain.
I sincerely hope Gucci doesn't discontinue this fragrance. At times, I feel like they are dedicated to mediocrity, but if they keep releasing fragrances as good as Guilty Absolute, I would be proven completely wrong. This is one of the best designer releases I've tried in a long time. It's nothing short of a masterpiece. Great job guys.
Saturday, December 8, 2018
Tom Ford - Noir Anthracite Review
The polarity of the composition is really surprising. One the one hand, it's fresh, with a really strong blast of szichuan pepper and citrus. On the other hand, it is also very dark and smoky. The smokiness is not quite as pronounced as fragrances like Encre Noire L'Extreme or Gucci Guilty Absolute, but it is nonetheless a dominant accord which may be off putting to some. The darker notes minimize the freshness, and the freshness tempers the darkness. I don't really get that dynamic in, say, Aramis, Antaeus, or Jacomo de Jacomo.
I also don't get animalic notes or moss. While there are floral notes, they're not really in the forefront either. What I get, instead, are leather, patchouli, smoke, spicy, and woody notes as the fragrance dries down.
The leather is buttery, smooth, and rich, yet also somewhat rugged. Think of the intoxicating smell of a pair of Gucci horsebit loafers, crossed with a worn out leather jacket which has spent years rested on the back of a chair in dive bars filled with cigarette smoke.
The wood is smells more like natural cedarwood oil (earthy, damp, kind of spicy, and resinous). It is not the clean, dry, and inoffensive pencil shavings of TdH.
Noir Anthracite also has that sharp texture I get from Tuscan Leather. Not an abrasive sharpness you get in some cheap or poorly composed fragrances. Rather, it's like note from TL which people say smells a, uh, really expensive stimulant.
Also, it might be worth noting, this smells NOTHING like Noir or Noir Extreme. Keep that in mind if you're expecting a powdery, chocolaty, creamy, or confectionery fragrance.
Performance is really good. It's not as excessive as some of Ford's other scents, but you'll get 8-10 hours out of it. It'll project for about an hour two before it sits close to the skin. It might not be as great a value as the other fragrances I mentioned; most of which are between 15-40 bucks for 3-4 ounces. However, I'm actually surprised this wasn't part of his private collection since it's quite daring and "nichelike" (I hate this term).
I also don't get animalic notes or moss. While there are floral notes, they're not really in the forefront either. What I get, instead, are leather, patchouli, smoke, spicy, and woody notes as the fragrance dries down.
The leather is buttery, smooth, and rich, yet also somewhat rugged. Think of the intoxicating smell of a pair of Gucci horsebit loafers, crossed with a worn out leather jacket which has spent years rested on the back of a chair in dive bars filled with cigarette smoke.
The wood is smells more like natural cedarwood oil (earthy, damp, kind of spicy, and resinous). It is not the clean, dry, and inoffensive pencil shavings of TdH.
Noir Anthracite also has that sharp texture I get from Tuscan Leather. Not an abrasive sharpness you get in some cheap or poorly composed fragrances. Rather, it's like note from TL which people say smells a, uh, really expensive stimulant.
Also, it might be worth noting, this smells NOTHING like Noir or Noir Extreme. Keep that in mind if you're expecting a powdery, chocolaty, creamy, or confectionery fragrance.
Performance is really good. It's not as excessive as some of Ford's other scents, but you'll get 8-10 hours out of it. It'll project for about an hour two before it sits close to the skin. It might not be as great a value as the other fragrances I mentioned; most of which are between 15-40 bucks for 3-4 ounces. However, I'm actually surprised this wasn't part of his private collection since it's quite daring and "nichelike" (I hate this term).
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
Lalique - White review
I am sure it did not happen like this, but I am imagining Jean-Claude Ellena giving a notice of resignation to Hermes. They wonder "oh crap, now what?!" Someone in charge of finding Ellena's replacement had just gotten a bottle of Lalique White. They go on Fragrantica, find out it was composed by Christine Nagel, then call her with a job offer.
Lalique White would be at home in a tall, slender, tapered, pillar shaped bottle sitting alongside Hermes' cologne collection. Upon initial spray, I immediately notice that it has the characteristics of Hermes' unique takes on classic eau de cologne themes. White's use of the lemon leaf is somewhat analogous to neroli; dry, floral, and a tad citrusy. It has a soapy violet note, which nods to Grey Flannel and Green Irish Tweed, aiding the leaf's bracing character. I do notice the black pepper, but it's not too heavy.
The scent doesn't evolve radically as it is drying down, other than the spices, tamarind, and cedar start to become more apparent and the lemon leaf gradually disappears. The cedar and spicy notes are not at all heavy handed or dark. They contribute to the fragrance's fresh and tart qualities, but also give it some legs to push out off the skin.
Longevity is actually really good. I get around 6 hours from it, maybe 8. That's not really great by general standards, but considering the nature of the composition, it's pretty impressive. It projects well for about an hour or so, then becomes more faint. It's a pretty gentle scent, so you can go a bit heavy on the sprayer
Lalique White would be at home in a tall, slender, tapered, pillar shaped bottle sitting alongside Hermes' cologne collection. Upon initial spray, I immediately notice that it has the characteristics of Hermes' unique takes on classic eau de cologne themes. White's use of the lemon leaf is somewhat analogous to neroli; dry, floral, and a tad citrusy. It has a soapy violet note, which nods to Grey Flannel and Green Irish Tweed, aiding the leaf's bracing character. I do notice the black pepper, but it's not too heavy.
The scent doesn't evolve radically as it is drying down, other than the spices, tamarind, and cedar start to become more apparent and the lemon leaf gradually disappears. The cedar and spicy notes are not at all heavy handed or dark. They contribute to the fragrance's fresh and tart qualities, but also give it some legs to push out off the skin.
Longevity is actually really good. I get around 6 hours from it, maybe 8. That's not really great by general standards, but considering the nature of the composition, it's pretty impressive. It projects well for about an hour or so, then becomes more faint. It's a pretty gentle scent, so you can go a bit heavy on the sprayer
Jazmin Sarai - Nar review
(From the Adel Emam film Al Erhab w'al Kebab)
After a long day of work, Ahmed comes home and tries to serenade his wife who is fast asleep. He sings some classic Egyptian songs from Abdel Halim Hafez, Mohammad Abdel Motaleb, and Farid el Atrash off key, while trying to make as much noise as possible to wake her up. He has no success. He pops in a cassette of Abdel Halim Hafez and proceeds to wake her up in the comical fashion for which Emam is best known. When she yells at him for making so much noise and waking her up, Ahmed reminds her that despite life's challenges, listening to Abdel Halim reminds one that life isn't so bad and they should enjoy it. Ultimately, Ahmed fails to seduce his wife, which is part of the movie's themes of accepting and making due with what is beyond one's control. Nonetheless, what he said about Abdel Halim's music is a common sentiment. He remains a figure of hope and passion even decades after his death, and his music continues to be heard in bars and concert halls among a younger generation. The deep, emotive and warm crooning of the Egyptian Nightingale stirs a burning fire in the hearts of Arabs and non-Arabs alike. Hence why a fragrance inspired by Abdel Halim Hafez is named Nar, which means fire in Arabic.
The immediate impression when you first spray Nar is smokiness. It's not the kind of smoky note associated with birch tar or incense, but more along the lines of liquid smoke. As it dries down, Nar freshens considerably with coriander and cedar. However, the smoke stays throughout the duration of the fragrance, even if it becomes somewhat muted. I don't get an amber accord out of it, even though it's in the note pyramid here. My description is short because the fragrance is straightforward and simple. However, that works to Nar's advantage, since there is clear note separation, it smells natural, and it is exceedingly smooth.
Performance is average. I get around 5 or 6 hours from it. It also sits close to the skin. It is gentle and tender like Abdel Halim's voice.
If it was inspired by someone with a voice as powerful and boisterous as Oum Kalsoum, on the other hand, I'd imagine it would make powerhouse houses like Jacques Bogart or Montale seem tame in comparison.
After a long day of work, Ahmed comes home and tries to serenade his wife who is fast asleep. He sings some classic Egyptian songs from Abdel Halim Hafez, Mohammad Abdel Motaleb, and Farid el Atrash off key, while trying to make as much noise as possible to wake her up. He has no success. He pops in a cassette of Abdel Halim Hafez and proceeds to wake her up in the comical fashion for which Emam is best known. When she yells at him for making so much noise and waking her up, Ahmed reminds her that despite life's challenges, listening to Abdel Halim reminds one that life isn't so bad and they should enjoy it. Ultimately, Ahmed fails to seduce his wife, which is part of the movie's themes of accepting and making due with what is beyond one's control. Nonetheless, what he said about Abdel Halim's music is a common sentiment. He remains a figure of hope and passion even decades after his death, and his music continues to be heard in bars and concert halls among a younger generation. The deep, emotive and warm crooning of the Egyptian Nightingale stirs a burning fire in the hearts of Arabs and non-Arabs alike. Hence why a fragrance inspired by Abdel Halim Hafez is named Nar, which means fire in Arabic.
The immediate impression when you first spray Nar is smokiness. It's not the kind of smoky note associated with birch tar or incense, but more along the lines of liquid smoke. As it dries down, Nar freshens considerably with coriander and cedar. However, the smoke stays throughout the duration of the fragrance, even if it becomes somewhat muted. I don't get an amber accord out of it, even though it's in the note pyramid here. My description is short because the fragrance is straightforward and simple. However, that works to Nar's advantage, since there is clear note separation, it smells natural, and it is exceedingly smooth.
Performance is average. I get around 5 or 6 hours from it. It also sits close to the skin. It is gentle and tender like Abdel Halim's voice.
If it was inspired by someone with a voice as powerful and boisterous as Oum Kalsoum, on the other hand, I'd imagine it would make powerhouse houses like Jacques Bogart or Montale seem tame in comparison.
Jazmin Sarai - Ma're review
This fragrance is the Mediterranean in a bottle. Absolutely gorgeous, and one of the best neroli scents I have tried.
The neroli note is stunning, and perfectly captures the smell of natural orange blossom water; which is a staple in Lebanon (and in much of the Arab world). It is mixed with a tart, sour, and dry lemon note. I'm not getting a yuzu note ala L'eau d'Issey, but I am familiar with citron fruit, which this does sort of resemble; albeit without any sweetness. These two notes drive the fragrance until the cypress starts to appear, which smells fresh and green, not particularly smoky.
I can't say I really notice arak - one of my favorite drinks, albeit one which has led to far too many horrible mornings - fig, or anything particularly aquatic, however.
Unlike, say, Neroli Portofino, I don't notice any sweetness here. Nor does it have the barbershop qualities of the Aqua di Parma line.
It is dry, bitter, bracing, and refreshing, like mixing orange blossom water and lemon juice in an ice cold glass of water, but forgetting to add any sugar. This is magical on a hot, humid day.
Its smoothness and uplifting beauty perfectly embodies the gentle tenderness of Fairuz, by whom this fragrance was inspired. Her elegant voice is as iconic to Lebanon as the cedar tree which adorns its flag.
Performance is ok in general, but superb for this kind of scent. I get around 6-8 hours out of it if applied liberally. It projects nicely for around an hour, then sits closer to the skin. By hour 3, I'd call this a skin scent.
The neroli note is stunning, and perfectly captures the smell of natural orange blossom water; which is a staple in Lebanon (and in much of the Arab world). It is mixed with a tart, sour, and dry lemon note. I'm not getting a yuzu note ala L'eau d'Issey, but I am familiar with citron fruit, which this does sort of resemble; albeit without any sweetness. These two notes drive the fragrance until the cypress starts to appear, which smells fresh and green, not particularly smoky.
I can't say I really notice arak - one of my favorite drinks, albeit one which has led to far too many horrible mornings - fig, or anything particularly aquatic, however.
Unlike, say, Neroli Portofino, I don't notice any sweetness here. Nor does it have the barbershop qualities of the Aqua di Parma line.
It is dry, bitter, bracing, and refreshing, like mixing orange blossom water and lemon juice in an ice cold glass of water, but forgetting to add any sugar. This is magical on a hot, humid day.
Its smoothness and uplifting beauty perfectly embodies the gentle tenderness of Fairuz, by whom this fragrance was inspired. Her elegant voice is as iconic to Lebanon as the cedar tree which adorns its flag.
Performance is ok in general, but superb for this kind of scent. I get around 6-8 hours out of it if applied liberally. It projects nicely for around an hour, then sits closer to the skin. By hour 3, I'd call this a skin scent.
Saturday, July 28, 2018
Review of Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche (2014) from Hermes
The most common theme for a fragrance flanker is the fresh reinterpretation of the original. It'll go by plenty of names; sport, eau, cologne, l'eau, summer, fraiche etc. It's a theme which is meant to take the original concept of the fragrance and lighten it with potent citruses or fresh spices. It's almost guaranteed to be a people pleasing scent, even if fragrance enthusiasts often hate the genre.
Personally, I'm more on the ambivalent side of the spectrum. I can't say I dislike them, but they're rarely anything I would reach for. There are exceptions, of course. Givenchy's Pi Fraiche, for example, is far superior to Pi to my nose. Claiborne Sport, Polo Sport, Roadster Sport, and Encre Noire Sport are fantastic fragrances too. Another one which impressed me is Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche, which was released in 2014.
Terre d'Hermes is a fragrance which I enjoy, but not one that I love. It’s elegant and well composed, and I do like its use of vetiver and bitter orange. But there are some similar fragrances which follow similar themes and smell a lot better to me. Terre d'Hermes Eau Tres Fraiche, on the other hand, is a different story. Without exaggerating, this might be one of my favorite citrus fragrances that I have ever tried. It’s up there with Atelier’s Orange Sanguine in terms of how realistic it smells.
Eau Tres Fraiche is clearly related to the original Terre. However, it really amps up the citrus notes. Instead of just getting the bitter orange from the original, it’s like an entire citrus salad. You get a bright, juicy orange note, paired with the dirty bitter orange, along with a tart, barely ripened grapefruit. It’s a mouth-watering melange of freshness. I’ve no idea how, but this citrus accord is very potent for a couple of hours on my skin, and hints of it lasts throughout most of the duration of the scent.
As it dries down, I get the woody – cedar – and vetiver notes from the original. However, it doesn’t smell earthy. It’s a fresher and cleaner rendition of those.
Longevity is good for this genre. I get around 7 or 8 hours out of it. It projects pretty well for around 2 hours. It starts to sit closer to the skin after that. By the 5th hour, and until the fragrance entirely disappears, you would have to get very close to its point of application to detect it.
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