This is my favorite in the Aqva line - a line which I really enjoy - but I can see why it's so polarizing. You can't approach this scent with the expectation that it will be an aquatic. That's not quite what it is. This is more like an eau de cologne meets an aquatic, but on Tren.
It starts off with orange and a proper neroli note (i.e. it smells like actual orange blossom water or neroli oil, not like whatever those cheaper "neroli" notes are supposed to smell like). My face is awash with the air of the Mediterranean when I smell this pairing. Although I can see how the white floral character of the neroli is polarizing to some. I feel like I get a hint of some dry, bitter jasmine as well (like jasmine tea), although it's not listed.
The opening accord lasts for quite a while, although it gradually darkens. The Aqva DNA becomes more noticeable at this point as the fragrance gradually gets saltier and aqueous. There's a bit of a dirty character, which pops up, and I'm guessing that comes from the patchouli. The far drydown smells more typical of an aquatic fragrance, and the earlier colonia notes are mostly gone. It reminds me of some other aquatic scent, but I can't recall which one (I want to say the drydown of AdG Essenza, but I'm not sure that's it).
Longevity is splendid. 12 hours easy. It projects like a beast for the first couple of hours, but it gradually becomes more of a skin scent. It persists after a shower, and I can smell hints of it after going out at night. It's a shame it's discontinued.
Monday, December 9, 2019
Monday, November 18, 2019
Azzaro - Acteur review
It's always a pleasure when I come across a fragrance which, from my first sniff, leaves me absolutely speechless. Acteur is one which caused that sort of effect on me. I kept sleeping on this scent, and I regret missing all the years during which I could have enjoyed this. Among Azzaro's popular Wanted line, all the endless Chrome flankers, and random and ignored scents of varying quality, this falls by the wayside (not sure if that's the cause of, or due to, being discontinued [or both]). That's criminal, however, as this easily stands on par with Azzaro's acclaimed mainstay Azzaro PH.
Although released in the 80's, this does not have much in common with the powerhouses of the decade; but some notes do overlap. It starts off with a dark, sweet, slightly pungent fruity accord. It is more like a melange of dense, syrupy, and sticky dried fruit simmered with some warm spices. It almost smells boozy; possibly since it reminds me of spicy drinks and pastries during the holiday seasons; albeit this accord is not at all sweet.
As the fragrance dries down, its rose, leather, and moss notes dominate the scent. The leather is supple and refined, but powerful. The raw patchouli note gives the scent an earthy and green character. Its cedar note also smells quite earthy; more like cedarwood oil than pencil shavings.
I get pretty good performance out of it. I get around 10ish hours of longevity, and maybe 2-3 hours of projection. It's tame, but you won't forget it's there.
The splash bottles are a bit annoying to apply. I'd suggest ordering a glass spray bottle in which you can just pour this. Current prices for the 50ml size can be had for a steal (around 20ish), and surprisingly less than half the cost of the 100ml bottle. Or just pay extra, get the 100ml spray bottle, and don't bother decanting it.
Although released in the 80's, this does not have much in common with the powerhouses of the decade; but some notes do overlap. It starts off with a dark, sweet, slightly pungent fruity accord. It is more like a melange of dense, syrupy, and sticky dried fruit simmered with some warm spices. It almost smells boozy; possibly since it reminds me of spicy drinks and pastries during the holiday seasons; albeit this accord is not at all sweet.
As the fragrance dries down, its rose, leather, and moss notes dominate the scent. The leather is supple and refined, but powerful. The raw patchouli note gives the scent an earthy and green character. Its cedar note also smells quite earthy; more like cedarwood oil than pencil shavings.
I get pretty good performance out of it. I get around 10ish hours of longevity, and maybe 2-3 hours of projection. It's tame, but you won't forget it's there.
The splash bottles are a bit annoying to apply. I'd suggest ordering a glass spray bottle in which you can just pour this. Current prices for the 50ml size can be had for a steal (around 20ish), and surprisingly less than half the cost of the 100ml bottle. Or just pay extra, get the 100ml spray bottle, and don't bother decanting it.
Monday, September 30, 2019
Aramis - New West
Although this is often called an aquatic or proto-aquatic, don't go into this expecting a fresh fougere like Cool Water, Eternity, Escape, Polo Sport, and the like. This is a dense, dark, complex, aromatic, green fragrance through and through, albeit with some touches which anticipate the 90's. This is more of a close friend of Guy Laroche's Horizon, even if it's not a close relative.
It starts off with a distinct watermelon note. I don't mean a typically aquatic melon nuance, but rather an obvious and forward melon note. It's paired with a salty aquatic note, smelling quite oceanic, but not fresh. This fruity aquatic pairing lasts for a couple of hours, and is the extent of the 90's touches. As it dries down, it becomes undoubtedly clear that this is a child of the 80's. The herbaceous and woody notes start dominating the composition. Although some mint gives it a fresh touch, the fragrance is marked by its primarily dark, pungent, bitter, and green direction. Juniper, pine, artemisia (probably what's giving the fragrance so much pungency to my nose), and leather jump at me, along with a cedar note which is more akin to cedarwood oil than to the pencil shavings note. I don't really get moss out of it, unfortunately. This is an 80's powerhouse through and through, but a very unique one.
I haven't tried the blue bottle version. The one I have is from 2014. Compares to other reformulations from Aramis, this actually has decent performance. I get maybe 8 hours from it. It projects strongly for a couple of hours before it turns into a skin scent.
It starts off with a distinct watermelon note. I don't mean a typically aquatic melon nuance, but rather an obvious and forward melon note. It's paired with a salty aquatic note, smelling quite oceanic, but not fresh. This fruity aquatic pairing lasts for a couple of hours, and is the extent of the 90's touches. As it dries down, it becomes undoubtedly clear that this is a child of the 80's. The herbaceous and woody notes start dominating the composition. Although some mint gives it a fresh touch, the fragrance is marked by its primarily dark, pungent, bitter, and green direction. Juniper, pine, artemisia (probably what's giving the fragrance so much pungency to my nose), and leather jump at me, along with a cedar note which is more akin to cedarwood oil than to the pencil shavings note. I don't really get moss out of it, unfortunately. This is an 80's powerhouse through and through, but a very unique one.
I haven't tried the blue bottle version. The one I have is from 2014. Compares to other reformulations from Aramis, this actually has decent performance. I get maybe 8 hours from it. It projects strongly for a couple of hours before it turns into a skin scent.
Saturday, September 21, 2019
Lalique - Encre Noire, 78% vs 79%
I have a bottle of the 78% version from 2012, and one of the 79% version from 2018. Doing a side-by-side comparison, both versions do smell mostly similar, but there are some differences.
The vintage is more daring. It smells dirty - like holding a fistful of grass and dirt - and is a tad smoky. It's paired with a nutty vetiver opening, which becomes fresher as the scent dries down.
The current version smells mostly similar in the drydown, and has the nutty vetiver in the opening. Where it differs is that I don't get the dirty, inky, or smoky notes from it.
Performance also differs. The vintage isn't a beast mode scent, but it's strong and tenacious. I get 12 hours and good projection. The current version lasts for 8-10 hours. It projects well for the first hour, then seems to sit closer to the skin, though people have made comments about it to me.
The current version isn't necessarily a bad reformulation. Whether it's worse or better than the vintage will probably depend on your own tastes. If you want something strong, a bit daring, and more vetiver dominant than EN L'Extreme, then you'll probably prefer the vintage. If you want something restrained, gentle, or office appropriate, safer, cleaner, fresher, and more vetiver dominant than EN Sport, you'll probably prefer the current version
The vintage is more daring. It smells dirty - like holding a fistful of grass and dirt - and is a tad smoky. It's paired with a nutty vetiver opening, which becomes fresher as the scent dries down.
The current version smells mostly similar in the drydown, and has the nutty vetiver in the opening. Where it differs is that I don't get the dirty, inky, or smoky notes from it.
Performance also differs. The vintage isn't a beast mode scent, but it's strong and tenacious. I get 12 hours and good projection. The current version lasts for 8-10 hours. It projects well for the first hour, then seems to sit closer to the skin, though people have made comments about it to me.
The current version isn't necessarily a bad reformulation. Whether it's worse or better than the vintage will probably depend on your own tastes. If you want something strong, a bit daring, and more vetiver dominant than EN L'Extreme, then you'll probably prefer the vintage. If you want something restrained, gentle, or office appropriate, safer, cleaner, fresher, and more vetiver dominant than EN Sport, you'll probably prefer the current version
Saturday, August 3, 2019
Issey Miyake - L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme Fraiche Review
After being really disappointed in the performance of the current L'eau d'Issey, I decided to give this one a try. While I cannot say that it's a replacement for the vintage version, Fraiche does fill the gap.
It does smell pretty similar; not the same, but similar. It's more sour and pungent upon initial spray, as the citrus is like a grapefruit rind, and it doesn't have that distinctive yuzu note. Nonetheless, if you're captivated by the original's opening, this is oh so very satisfying.
As it dries down, the citrus note does linger a lot longer than I'd have expected. It becomes slightly herbaceous, there's a bit of vetiver, and some musk. It mostly continues in that direction through the duration of the scent. It's not floral like the original, though I do get a slight hint of rose in the drydown which caught me off guard (in a good way).
I happen to love the original's floral character, but others may prefer this direction.
I got this during a heat wave, so I wore it while being somewhat sweaty. I can't comment on how this will perform in the winter, but this is magical in the high heat. It really shimmers beautifully, and you get these gentle wafts from the scent.
Longevity is around 8-10 hours.
Good projection for around an hour. Sits closer to the skin after that, but it lingers. Spray it on clothes and you'll get even more mileage.
It does smell pretty similar; not the same, but similar. It's more sour and pungent upon initial spray, as the citrus is like a grapefruit rind, and it doesn't have that distinctive yuzu note. Nonetheless, if you're captivated by the original's opening, this is oh so very satisfying.
As it dries down, the citrus note does linger a lot longer than I'd have expected. It becomes slightly herbaceous, there's a bit of vetiver, and some musk. It mostly continues in that direction through the duration of the scent. It's not floral like the original, though I do get a slight hint of rose in the drydown which caught me off guard (in a good way).
I happen to love the original's floral character, but others may prefer this direction.
I got this during a heat wave, so I wore it while being somewhat sweaty. I can't comment on how this will perform in the winter, but this is magical in the high heat. It really shimmers beautifully, and you get these gentle wafts from the scent.
Longevity is around 8-10 hours.
Good projection for around an hour. Sits closer to the skin after that, but it lingers. Spray it on clothes and you'll get even more mileage.
Sunday, June 23, 2019
Acqua di Parma - Colonia Club Review
One look at the bottle will basically tell you what this fragrance smells like. Colonia Club has the basic AdP Colonia line DNA, but it goes in a greener direction.
The primary note is a multifaceted take on mint. It's earthy, as though it is still in the ground, and is slightly pungent. It lacks the coldness of peppermint or spearmint oil, and smells more like you just crushed some fresh mint in your hand. Lavender begins to rear its head as the scent dries down, and rings true to the smell of pure lavender oil. The neroli is not as prominent as I was expecting, but it's still there, and the lemon is more forward than the voted main notes would indicate.
Performance is moderate, but that's to be expected. I get maybe 6 hours from it, and it's a skin scent by the end of the first hour.
The primary note is a multifaceted take on mint. It's earthy, as though it is still in the ground, and is slightly pungent. It lacks the coldness of peppermint or spearmint oil, and smells more like you just crushed some fresh mint in your hand. Lavender begins to rear its head as the scent dries down, and rings true to the smell of pure lavender oil. The neroli is not as prominent as I was expecting, but it's still there, and the lemon is more forward than the voted main notes would indicate.
Performance is moderate, but that's to be expected. I get maybe 6 hours from it, and it's a skin scent by the end of the first hour.
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