I am sure it did not happen like this, but I am imagining Jean-Claude Ellena giving a notice of resignation to Hermes. They wonder "oh crap, now what?!" Someone in charge of finding Ellena's replacement had just gotten a bottle of Lalique White. They go on Fragrantica, find out it was composed by Christine Nagel, then call her with a job offer.
Lalique White would be at home in a tall, slender, tapered, pillar shaped bottle sitting alongside Hermes' cologne collection. Upon initial spray, I immediately notice that it has the characteristics of Hermes' unique takes on classic eau de cologne themes. White's use of the lemon leaf is somewhat analogous to neroli; dry, floral, and a tad citrusy. It has a soapy violet note, which nods to Grey Flannel and Green Irish Tweed, aiding the leaf's bracing character. I do notice the black pepper, but it's not too heavy.
The scent doesn't evolve radically as it is drying down, other than the spices, tamarind, and cedar start to become more apparent and the lemon leaf gradually disappears. The cedar and spicy notes are not at all heavy handed or dark. They contribute to the fragrance's fresh and tart qualities, but also give it some legs to push out off the skin.
Longevity is actually really good. I get around 6 hours from it, maybe 8. That's not really great by general standards, but considering the nature of the composition, it's pretty impressive. It projects well for about an hour or so, then becomes more faint. It's a pretty gentle scent, so you can go a bit heavy on the sprayer
Wednesday, August 1, 2018
Jazmin Sarai - Nar review
(From the Adel Emam film Al Erhab w'al Kebab)
After a long day of work, Ahmed comes home and tries to serenade his wife who is fast asleep. He sings some classic Egyptian songs from Abdel Halim Hafez, Mohammad Abdel Motaleb, and Farid el Atrash off key, while trying to make as much noise as possible to wake her up. He has no success. He pops in a cassette of Abdel Halim Hafez and proceeds to wake her up in the comical fashion for which Emam is best known. When she yells at him for making so much noise and waking her up, Ahmed reminds her that despite life's challenges, listening to Abdel Halim reminds one that life isn't so bad and they should enjoy it. Ultimately, Ahmed fails to seduce his wife, which is part of the movie's themes of accepting and making due with what is beyond one's control. Nonetheless, what he said about Abdel Halim's music is a common sentiment. He remains a figure of hope and passion even decades after his death, and his music continues to be heard in bars and concert halls among a younger generation. The deep, emotive and warm crooning of the Egyptian Nightingale stirs a burning fire in the hearts of Arabs and non-Arabs alike. Hence why a fragrance inspired by Abdel Halim Hafez is named Nar, which means fire in Arabic.
The immediate impression when you first spray Nar is smokiness. It's not the kind of smoky note associated with birch tar or incense, but more along the lines of liquid smoke. As it dries down, Nar freshens considerably with coriander and cedar. However, the smoke stays throughout the duration of the fragrance, even if it becomes somewhat muted. I don't get an amber accord out of it, even though it's in the note pyramid here. My description is short because the fragrance is straightforward and simple. However, that works to Nar's advantage, since there is clear note separation, it smells natural, and it is exceedingly smooth.
Performance is average. I get around 5 or 6 hours from it. It also sits close to the skin. It is gentle and tender like Abdel Halim's voice.
If it was inspired by someone with a voice as powerful and boisterous as Oum Kalsoum, on the other hand, I'd imagine it would make powerhouse houses like Jacques Bogart or Montale seem tame in comparison.
After a long day of work, Ahmed comes home and tries to serenade his wife who is fast asleep. He sings some classic Egyptian songs from Abdel Halim Hafez, Mohammad Abdel Motaleb, and Farid el Atrash off key, while trying to make as much noise as possible to wake her up. He has no success. He pops in a cassette of Abdel Halim Hafez and proceeds to wake her up in the comical fashion for which Emam is best known. When she yells at him for making so much noise and waking her up, Ahmed reminds her that despite life's challenges, listening to Abdel Halim reminds one that life isn't so bad and they should enjoy it. Ultimately, Ahmed fails to seduce his wife, which is part of the movie's themes of accepting and making due with what is beyond one's control. Nonetheless, what he said about Abdel Halim's music is a common sentiment. He remains a figure of hope and passion even decades after his death, and his music continues to be heard in bars and concert halls among a younger generation. The deep, emotive and warm crooning of the Egyptian Nightingale stirs a burning fire in the hearts of Arabs and non-Arabs alike. Hence why a fragrance inspired by Abdel Halim Hafez is named Nar, which means fire in Arabic.
The immediate impression when you first spray Nar is smokiness. It's not the kind of smoky note associated with birch tar or incense, but more along the lines of liquid smoke. As it dries down, Nar freshens considerably with coriander and cedar. However, the smoke stays throughout the duration of the fragrance, even if it becomes somewhat muted. I don't get an amber accord out of it, even though it's in the note pyramid here. My description is short because the fragrance is straightforward and simple. However, that works to Nar's advantage, since there is clear note separation, it smells natural, and it is exceedingly smooth.
Performance is average. I get around 5 or 6 hours from it. It also sits close to the skin. It is gentle and tender like Abdel Halim's voice.
If it was inspired by someone with a voice as powerful and boisterous as Oum Kalsoum, on the other hand, I'd imagine it would make powerhouse houses like Jacques Bogart or Montale seem tame in comparison.
Jazmin Sarai - Ma're review
This fragrance is the Mediterranean in a bottle. Absolutely gorgeous, and one of the best neroli scents I have tried.
The neroli note is stunning, and perfectly captures the smell of natural orange blossom water; which is a staple in Lebanon (and in much of the Arab world). It is mixed with a tart, sour, and dry lemon note. I'm not getting a yuzu note ala L'eau d'Issey, but I am familiar with citron fruit, which this does sort of resemble; albeit without any sweetness. These two notes drive the fragrance until the cypress starts to appear, which smells fresh and green, not particularly smoky.
I can't say I really notice arak - one of my favorite drinks, albeit one which has led to far too many horrible mornings - fig, or anything particularly aquatic, however.
Unlike, say, Neroli Portofino, I don't notice any sweetness here. Nor does it have the barbershop qualities of the Aqua di Parma line.
It is dry, bitter, bracing, and refreshing, like mixing orange blossom water and lemon juice in an ice cold glass of water, but forgetting to add any sugar. This is magical on a hot, humid day.
Its smoothness and uplifting beauty perfectly embodies the gentle tenderness of Fairuz, by whom this fragrance was inspired. Her elegant voice is as iconic to Lebanon as the cedar tree which adorns its flag.
Performance is ok in general, but superb for this kind of scent. I get around 6-8 hours out of it if applied liberally. It projects nicely for around an hour, then sits closer to the skin. By hour 3, I'd call this a skin scent.
The neroli note is stunning, and perfectly captures the smell of natural orange blossom water; which is a staple in Lebanon (and in much of the Arab world). It is mixed with a tart, sour, and dry lemon note. I'm not getting a yuzu note ala L'eau d'Issey, but I am familiar with citron fruit, which this does sort of resemble; albeit without any sweetness. These two notes drive the fragrance until the cypress starts to appear, which smells fresh and green, not particularly smoky.
I can't say I really notice arak - one of my favorite drinks, albeit one which has led to far too many horrible mornings - fig, or anything particularly aquatic, however.
Unlike, say, Neroli Portofino, I don't notice any sweetness here. Nor does it have the barbershop qualities of the Aqua di Parma line.
It is dry, bitter, bracing, and refreshing, like mixing orange blossom water and lemon juice in an ice cold glass of water, but forgetting to add any sugar. This is magical on a hot, humid day.
Its smoothness and uplifting beauty perfectly embodies the gentle tenderness of Fairuz, by whom this fragrance was inspired. Her elegant voice is as iconic to Lebanon as the cedar tree which adorns its flag.
Performance is ok in general, but superb for this kind of scent. I get around 6-8 hours out of it if applied liberally. It projects nicely for around an hour, then sits closer to the skin. By hour 3, I'd call this a skin scent.
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