Review of Ungaro pour L'Homme III

Ungaro pour L'Homme III is the only one of the three fragrances in the Ungaro pour L'Homme series which is still in production, as well as the only one which I have tried. Despite having quite a following on Fragrantica and Basenotes, there aren't too many blog or vlog reviews of this one.

Ungaro pour L'Homme III is an aromatic fragrance released in 1993. Comparably to numerous fragrances from the late 80's and early 90's, it occupies a limited niche which bridges the gap between the past and future fragrances. It does not bear a lot of similarities to the aromatic powerhouses from the 70's and 80's, yet it's still really gothic and dense. It's not really like the fresh woody florals which were popular from the mid-90's through today, yet it's still really fresh, and feels like it could have been a 1990's Chanel release.

Ungaro pour L'Homme III is quite complex and well blended. It starts off with a strong orange and fresh patchouli note. The orange isn't fresh and bright, but rather dark and overripe. The patchouli focuses on the green and minty quality from that plant family, rather than the earthy or chocolaty notes. There is, of course, the famed vodka note as well. It is difficult to describe, since the vodka note is not at all comparable to the harsh ethyl smell at the opening of some inexpensive fragrances, and vodka is generally a neutral and odorless spirit anyway. Yet there it is, and it gives the impression of opening a bottle of smooth vodka. Its less than neutral booziness paired with the citrus and minty patchouli is reminiscent of a vodka based cocktail you would order at a legitimate cocktail bar.

Its floral accords start to emerge shortly after. It's a seamless transition from the top to the heart, as both phases are combined for a while. I get some jasmine (but not a fecal, indolic jasmine), geranium, and rose. The florals are sightly sweet, very dark and morose, and very masculine.
Also, I don't think this is a rose dominated fragrance. It often gets recommended for masculine roses, but it's really just a supporting player to my nose.

As the heart begins to gradually transition to the base, the earlier florals start to dissipate, and the lavender is more pronounced. The lavender and remainder of the heart notes are paired with the woody accord. I get some cedar, which is more similar to natural cedarwood oil, which is very dark and earthy, rather than the Iso E Super cedar, which is lighter and more like pencil shavings. This continues into the far drydown, which is basically lavender, musk, and a little bit of patchouli.

Longevity is excellent. This lasts 10+ hours on my skin with a couple of sprays.
Projection and sillage are moderate. It projects very heavily for about an hour or so, then starts to rest closer to the skin. After about 8 hours, it becomes a really subtle skin scent.

I also can't think of any fragrances which smell like this. It is very unique, sophisticated, sensual, and austere. At such a low price point, it is worth trying if you enjoy dark, brooding fragrances, or aromatic florals. Just don't buy this expecting it to be a rose dominated scent.